Mural at Panagia Skafidiani church

Church of Panagia Skafidiani

The byzantine church of Panagia Skafidiani (Virgin Mary of Skafidia) is located next to the mountain village of Prodromi, Chania, about 12 km from Paleochora. The small, white church is located on the right side of the road shortly before entering the village, on an elevated position with magnificent views of the surrounding area, which is called “Skafidia”. The exceptional hagiography murals you find inside the church were painted in the mid-14th century by Ioakim, a student of the famous hagiographer of the time Ioannis Pagomenos. The most important hagiographies inside the church depict the Treason (the kiss of Judas), the Assumption of Virgin Mary, and the Baptism of Christ by John. The Saints Constantine and Helen are also portrayed, with Saint Paraskevi beside them.

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Mural at Profitis Ilias church

Prophitis Ilias – Trachiniakos, Kandanos

The byzantine church of Prophitis Ilias (Prophet Elias) in the Trachiniakos settlement of Kandanos, Chania, is a small church built in the mid-14th century. Although, for the general public, it is one of the lesser-known churches in the region of Chania, it is rich in hagiography murals that were painted centuries ago. Among these excellent hagiographies, we can see the prominent figure of Prophet Elias, which is next to the iconostasis, as well as the figures of Virgin Mary with Jesus, Archangel Michael, Saint Panteleimon (who is depicted holding a medical tool of the era), Saint Paraskevi and Saint Kyriaki. In the courtyard of the church there is a small cemetery.

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Mural at Metamorfosi tou Sotiros church

Metamorphosis tou Sotiros – Plemeniana

The byzantine church of Metamorfosis tou Sotiros (Transfiguration of the Savior) is located outside the village of Plemeniana in Chania. You pass Plemeniana and continue on the road to Kandanos, and after crossing the junction with the road to Elafonissi, in the place where you see a large church, you turn left into an olive grove and you see the church at the end of the road. The extra effort of finding it makes up for the fact that it is one of the most impressive churches in the area.
The church has been masterfully restored in recent years, and it is now a real architectural “jewel” of the area. Its interior has been painted by three different hagiographers in the 13th and 14th centuries. Among hagiography murals of exceptional artistic style, we find the Transfiguration, the Baptism, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the Birth, the Candlemas and the Last Supper. The church has been built in the place of an Early Christian temple of the 5th or 6th century, and in its masonry we can distinguish pieces from this old temple, including statues. In the courtyard of the church there is a cemetery.

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Mural at arxagelos Mixail church

Archangelos Michail – Sarakina

The byzantine church of Archangelos Michail is located in the hilly village of Sarakina, Chania, 12 km from Paleochora. The church is on a path on the right side of the road just before entering the village. You can find the key of the church either near the door of the church or in the “kafenio” (traditional cafe) of the village. The small stone-built church of Archangelos Michail features exceptional hagiography murals dating back to 1325 AD, among which a special hagiography portraying St. George on horseback, along with a young man with a pointed cap and cup in hand, which, according to tradition, is the young paphlagonian the Saint saved from captivity and reunited with his parents. The built icon screen is also characteristic, as it is rare among local churches.

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Mural at Agios Georgios and Nikolaos church

Agios Georgios & Agios Nikolaos – Anidri

The byzantine church of Agios Georgios and Agios Nikolaos in Anidri, Chania, is located in the center of the village, only 5 km away from Paleochora. The exact location of the church, is at the beginning of the road leading to the gorge and the beach of Anidri. According to an inscription found, the hagiography murals of the church of Agios Georgios, which was built first, were made in 1323 AD by the famous painter and hagiographer of the era Ioannis Pagomenos, and they depict Saint George on horseback, scenes from the Saint’s martyrdom, and also Saint Dimitrios, Saint Anastasia the Pharmacolytria and Saint Irene. Right next to the church of Agios Georgios, the church of Agios Nikolaos was built in the 14th century. The two churches were unified with the characteristic bell tower located among them in the early 20th century.

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Mural at Agios Georgios church

Agios Georgios – Sklavopoula

The byzantine church of Agios Georgios (Saint George) in the mountain village of Sklavopoula, Chania, is located at the entrance of the village, next to the school. You can get the key of the church, if you ask at the houses behind the school. The church is about 20 km away from Paleochora, and the road to the village is well-paved and has many turns. The church of Agios Georgios in Sklavopoula is one of the oldest in the area, with the first phase of its hagiography painting taking place at the end of the 13th century, and the second phase during the 14th century. Among the holy figures portrayed, we find Virgin Mary, the young Christ, Saint Mandilion, the four sacred Fathers of the Church Gregory, Basil, John the Chrysostom and Cyril, and also Saint George, Saint Theodor and Archangel Michael.

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Mural at Agia Paraskevh church

Agia Paraskevi – Voutas

The byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi (Saint Paraskevi) is located about 13 km away from Paleochora, and about 500 meters outside the village of Voutas in Chania, on the road heading to Kalamio and Sklavopoula. It is a small white church, whose one side is characteristically sloping. The church is full of exceptional hagiography murals that were painted during the second half of the 14th century. What makes this church special is that, apart from murals depicting figures of saints and scenes from the life of Christ, there are also extensive murals that portray in detail the punishment, through torture, of the sinners in hell. Next to the church there is a small cemetery.

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Mural at Aggia Anna church

Agia Anna – Anissaraki, Kandanos

To find the byzantine church of Agia Anna (Saint Anna) in Anissaraki, Kandanos, follow the road from Kandanos to Temenia and the road signs leading to the church. Once you park on location, continue on foot since the church is on a hillside and is not visible from the road. The church is intricately decorated with hagiography murals painted in the 14th or 15th century. Among the hagiographies we find scenes from the childhood of Virgin Mary, depicted with her parents Anna and Joachim, as well as the figures of John the Merciful, John the Chrysostom and Gregory the Nazianzinus. A emblematic and rare hagiography of the church, is the one portraying Saint Anna breastfeeding Virgin Mary.

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Mural at byzantine church in Palaiochora

Byzantium of Paleochora

In the surrounding area of Paleochora you can find stunning byzantine churches of the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries, which are excellent examples of the ecclesiastical architecture and – above all – of the hagiographical style of their era. Some of these churches’ murals have been painted by the famous painter and hagiographer Ioannis Pagomenos or by students of his school. We can say that these churches are like a true cultural “ark” that preserves the byzantine religious art of the Paleochora area throughout the centuries.

Couples dancing traditional cretan dance

Carnival festivities

Greece’s Carnival season, known as “Apokries,” is a period which traditionally begins ten weeks before Greek Orthodox Easter and culminates on the weekend before “Clean Monday,” (Ash Monday) the first day of Lent. It lasts 3 weeks and it starts within February. It is time for fancy dress parties, gatherings and generally a good time before the restraints of lent. Paleochora’s carnival festivities are now an institution that involves the entire town. Years ago, a group of women took the initiative of organizing the scattered groups of friends who wanted to celebrate the carnival, and now almost 30 years later, Paleochora’s activities attract visitors from across Crete, Greece and from abroad. The parties, dancing around the maypole, the Grilled Thursday (day dedicated to eating grilled meat) and the Carnival parade that takes place in the town’s central road, for 4 entire hours give a joyous note amidst the quieter, winter months and is definitely worth your visit.